We began our day with drive around the city viewing the sights and then a visit to the museum which had relics from Gonur and Merv. Gonur is a site north of Merv and these relics dating 5 and 6 millenniums BC. Quite a collection in the museum. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see Merv or Goner ruins. However the piece that impressed me the most was  a large copper bowl that was dented but dated 5 millenniums BC.  Wow!

We drove towards Ashgabat. Stopped at tea house for tea and break and again the landscape was arid.

In the afternoon we stopped at some more ruins which had been in use over the years as a place to stop on the silk road.

Arrived in the marble city late afternoon.

The next day we had a non travelling day so we toured the city of white marble. There were many monuments lavishly built with landscaped gardens in their early stages.

I walked to the Russian market which was interesting. Dinner at local restaurant.

Last alcohol for a while as we are crossing into Iran tomorrow.

Left Bukhara with a group photo at the Madrassah. We had to find a spot where the cars could be lined up. Ian and I had driven Vulcan the night before and had photos in front of the minaret and the Madrassah.. Now we had a photo of the 8 of us.

Arrived at border and began the process. Exited Ubezkistan. However the Turkmenistan border control went on lunch for 1 1/2 hours … a fact that the Turkmenistan guide hadn’t let us know so half way through our entry process the offices were locked and the staff disappeared.

We eventually were processed and began the drive to Mary. A very hot, desolate landscape. With herds of camels instead of cows and sheep this gave us an indication of the aridness.

Arrived late, dinner and bed.

We headed off on a walking tour at 9am before the heat of the day. The old town had a lovely feeling about it and for the first time on the Silk Road one can imagine travellers stopping here in bygone days to rest their animals and exchange /purchase goods.

The old Madrassah  was used for crafts but had a lovely style.

The Kalon mosque, Miri Arab Madrassah and old minaret make for a beautiful setting. This Madrassah is one of the few still in use and has room for classes as well as accommodation for about 120 students. We were not able to go past the main door as it for closed for the school holidays. The Mosque , however we did enter and it was large and had an inspiring feel about it. Not very often walking through a building you can experience a feeling of awe. This mosque did it for me!

Continuing walking we visited the Arc which was the Amir’s palace. This is no longer a residence but has been renovated to display artefacts in the museum and the throne room/coronation room was interesting with covered edges but the main building open to the sky.
When having an audience with the Amir one was to approach with hand on chest and when leaving you were not to turn your back on the Amir so you and to back all the way to the door.
What remains of the original Arc is only about 20% of the total buildings that would have existed in the day. The wall surrounding it has been rebuilt.

We passed by some of the craftsmen (masters) in different crafts such as steel forging (for knives) and engraving plates. Also the spices that are found in everyday food was an interesting stall. Amazingly saffron, a spice that you associate with the silk road was not cheaper here than in Sydney!

We visited another mosque set behind one of the ponds in Bukhara. The leader of the Mosque allowed us in.

An old mausoleum built with brick designs completed our tour. It was beautifully constructed and it was pointed out to us that its buildng of the done was based on combinations of 4 (4,8,16,32,64)

Ian and I walked back towards the hotel. It was very hot and we had lunch by the water pictured in yesterdays blog. We then drove Vulcan so that we could photograph her in from the the Madrassah and Mosque and Minaret.

An exciting evening was had as dinner was organised at a local home. A beautiful meal. After the meal Ian and I bought a gorgeous carpet that we had seen earlier in the day. At 11pm the seller who also designed the carpet had the carpet certificate people come to our hotel to write a certificate for it. It is silk on silk and is just another thing good old “Vulcan” is carrying for us!

Today we left the camp at our usual departure time after breakfast and drove across the arid land once more. Of course I couldn’t resist the donkey carts carrying calves!

We stopped at an old fort that was supposedly a fort of Alexander the Great. A special place for the people of the town. We walked to the top of the fort and it gave us an interesting view of the surrounding land.

Onward we drove and stopped again…this time to view some rock drawings. The day was very hot and by the time we reached the hotel in Bukhara we were grateful for some air conditioning. A two hour walking tour of the old town showed us the old caravanasi (where those on the silk road stopped to stay/sell their wares.) and the other areas including the jewish area of town. We stopped in at the Jewish synagogue and were given a wonderful talk by a member of the congregation whose children had moved to Melbourne!

The old town is centred on water where the camel statues give you the feel of days gone by. The silk carpet making was beautiful and the stalls selling all sorts of goods will get us back tomorrow.